Fashion Week Showrooms: Gayeon Lee, Kevin Geddes, Nafsika Skourti and REIN
London Fashion Week: our picks
Gayeon Lee SS16
Gayeon Lee takes us by way of the hazy impression of an Italian summer, that, specifically of Federico Clavarino’s travel photobook Italia O Italia. Just as impressions pale in our mental weather, her SS16 collection lands in a tonal palette, with variables of dark and light that composed an unassuming study of chiaroscuro. A recurring theme is one adorned by burnished and matte buttons, bishop sleeves and puckered waistlines. Braced in Lee’s metallic orange hues, the ample tailoring unveiled as startlingly sinuous. Leave it to the wisdom of daylight.
Kevin Geddes SS16
When the nearing London winter would finally conclude, spring may be, for Kevin Geddes, an act of bravura thawing the icy drama with a hushed resolution. I’m talking about the Evil-Knievel-meets-Japanese-retro-anime kind of resolution, but crafted in easy lines and earthy tones. With the delight of sports-inspired rubber KG logo, the female heroism is charged with no less energy, but reticent and gentle in its own array. Spells are better left in whispers.
Nafsika Skourti SS16
Though tense under the spotlight of escalating international crisis, let us be reminded that being a vital manufacturer for garment conglomerates, Jordan is much in its element when Fashion comes calling. But of course, being Jordanian, it is never devoid of social relevance. For SS16, Jordan-based Nafsika Skourti ventured slightly outside her previously desaturated outlook, and staged such “fashionable protest” with her camouflage-themed Temporary Security: soft in form, resolute in spirit. Bilingual text enunciates an intuitive political self, up against backgrounds furnished by derelict Hollywood movie props. I for one, would long to see the “beautiful activism” prevail in and outside the wearable dialogues of Jordan.
REIN SS16
As many collections for SS16 couldn’t help retrieving the rosiness of sunlight and green leaves (though hardly blameful after the non-existent English summer), REIN marches in with an all-black statement that does not pronounce rigidness, instead, a uniform, necessary stubbornness we could all contemplate on, on the thesis of female empowerment.
Laser cutting reveals maze-like patterns through tunic dresses, jackets and matte suede, there stands a body and a girl who is the helmer of her own skin but don’t ever think that’s all there is to her assets.
We meet fabric illusionist Yvette Peek
The ArtEZ design alumni blew everyone away with her graduation collection, sending illusional masterpieces down the catwalk. Check out the interview.
All keep track of upcoming designer Yvette Peek. The ArtEZ design alumni blew everyone away with her graduation collection, sending illusional masterpieces down the catwalk. As curious as we are, we had a talk with her about the story behind her first collection, her admiration for strong women with non-conforming elegance and being the assistant designer of Sharon Wauchob.
What made you realize you wanted to be a designer?
My biggest source of inspiration is my grandmother. When I was a little girl, she taught me how to sew. That led to her teaching me embroidery techniques and pattern making. We even stitched my first designs together.
What do you think are your biggest assets as a designer?
As a designer I challenge myself to find the unexpected in materials and textiles and I made that into my greatest strength. When I design clothing I always have a strong woman in mind, with non-conforming elegance and a luxurious approach to colour and fabric. My graduation collection is based on the insomnia drawings of Louise Bourgeois. One of the strongest and most inspiring women I have ever known.
Before you started with the collection, did you already know the outcome of the design concept?
I went to the exhibition of Bill Viola during my internship in Paris. This was one of the most exhilarating exhibitions I have ever seen. My eye caught on of his illusional art pieces ‘Veiling’ of Bill Viola. In a dark space, an unfocussed film of a man is projected through 10 translucent sheets of fabric, growing paler and larger towards the centre. Two projectors at opposite ends of the space face each other and project images into the layers of material. I became fixated on this video installation. And from that moment on I knew that I wanted to recreate that illusional effect with different kind of layers fabric in my collection. The elements of shape-shifting developed later on, during my drape sessions. After a few drape sessions I came to the idea that my collection had to represents the brain that is experiencing insomnia, and that’s where the insomnia drawings came in.
You interpreted insomnia with fabrics where Louise Bourgeois did the same thing with pencil. Why is it that your collection exists of tints of black, grey and white, while bourgeois’ work consists of colour?
The type of woman I made this collection for is elegant, unpredictable and psychotic. I have used darker tones to create that psychotic vibe. And the best way to create an unpredictable illusion through different layers is to use tints of black and grey.
Can you tell us a bit more about the design process behind the collection?
Quality of fabric and craftsmanship are my most important values when designing. Therefore I won’t be looking at the clock when working on my designs. My collection consists of a lot of different crafts that have to be meticulously conducted. One look required an embroidered top that consists of 460 small pieces of springs that I have formed in circles, and those springs and beads are all embroidered by hand. This took my approximately three weeks. The two last looks in my collection consist of 22 meters of tulle per outfit, all hand-printed with markers, and 4.5 meters of printed plastic. From of all the time I spent working on my collection, those looks were the ones that took up the most time.
You're working as an assistant designer for Sharon Wauchob now. How did that happen and what do you admire about her work?
I worked as an intern for Sharon Wauchob two years ago. During my internship I was assigned as assistant textile/embroideries designer. This was one of the best learning experiences I had so far as Sharon gave me a lot of opportunities to develop myself. After my internship I went back to school for my final year but I stayed in contact with her and I always came back to Paris to help the team during Paris Fashion Week. Sharon is a consistently talented designer who creates thoughtfully engineered garments. I admire her strong detail-focused aesthetic. The way she uses traditional techniques and delicate fabrics in her collection inspires me.
How do you see your career developing from now on?
I would like to gain more experience within the field of design. I hope to get the opportunity to learn a lot from Sharon Wauchob over the next years. It would also be interesting to develop myself within another creative luxury brand with a focus on textiles, but we should not jump to conclusions. You never know what happens and I am looking forward to every new opportunity!
Fashion Week Showrooms: Xu Zhi SS16
London Fashion Week - Our picks
It can’t be denied that there was elegance in the air in Xu Zhi’s SS16 lookbook, but it’s that of such fervency one must touch it to know it. Hand weaving is the long-serving charm in fashion that Xu Zhi keeps coming back to. Inadvertent grace is ever-present borne by his at-ease handcraft, while the knitted satin poetry glides along vivid saturation. With craft in the most tangible sense, this fresh-out-of-Saint Martins graduate is handing out a reassuring answer to how he may grapple a thread-bound intrigue for London.
Xu Zhi SS16, photography by Theresa Mar
5 emerging designers we love…
Stumbling on new design talent in the fashion industry is always exciting, especially when those designers can change the perception you have on fashion. Curious about what you might be wearing in a couple of years? Keep a close eye on these talents and you’re ought to find out!
Moses Gauntlett Cheng
Designer complex Moses Gauntlett Cheng, consisting of David Moses, Esther Gauntlett and Jenny Cheng, is challenging the status quo. Known for pushing the boundaries from material choices to gender roles imposed by society, MGC has caused quite some controversy in the sometimes static world of fashion. Brilliantly shocking and oh so fun, their 2015 A/W collection was a non-stop party, starting off by models flaunting an adult baby look down the runway before jumping out of an RV. They explain their cutting-edge collection as a reaction to the piling stress and exhaustion in a rushed life. “We wanted to capture the vibe of going home and embracing comfort a little bit too much; reverting to this ‘adult baby’ stage and being looked after in a way that you’re kind of in love with and also embarrassed by”. Offering not only comfort but also a voice to a new indefinable generation; we expect them to occupy a permanent spot on the fashion radar.
Images via lucillagray.com
Lucilla Gray
In barely two seasons Lucilla Gray has already earned her place at both London Fashion Week and New Zealand Fashion Week, where she just presented her latest collection. Voicing an intelligent, strong woman, she merges conceptual fashion with ready-to-wear ideals as if they were made to synchronize. Although equally mesmerized by the otherworldly digital prints and versatility in her designs, we are mostly impressed by the level of sophistication she implements in every collection piece.
Ashley Kang
All eyes drawn to her remarkably detailed layering at Central Saint Martins graduation show, it is not a surprise knitwear graduate Ashley Kang learned her embroidery skills by working at no other than Alexander McQueen. Top that with a serious dose of glitter, metallics and heavy knits and you have Sporty Granny. Inspired by her own grandmother, her love for flowers and adventure, she created an overwhelming feast for the eye out of materials that couldn’t be more different but somehow fit the picture perfectly. Modernised granny glasses with beaded strings balanced out the outer space sneakers and futuristic silhouettes. Although we have only her graduation show to judge from, it is safe to say we will be seeing more from this young mastermind.
Image via leparadox.com
Quoï Alexander
Another Central Saint Martins wonder, Quoï Alexander, is taking over the fashion industry with his ‘anything but ordinary’ knits. Characterized by strong silhouettes and killer weaving techniques, his latest collection exists of laced armours, intertwining ideas and references together. The inspiration behind his complex collection came from Xu Bing, the writer who tricked Chinese readers in thinking he mastered the language, while in reality his words meant nothing. Obscurity through abstraction, a concept Quoï executed by bold opulence. A choice he had to make, as he could have gone for a minimalist approach. Instead he went for the maximalist route, a choice that definitely launched his career and made us admirers of his work.
Isabel Helf
As maximalism was the former designer’s main strength, Austrian accessory designer Isabel Helf is all about practical minimalism. Her multifunctional handbags have led her to wining the top price at this year’s ITS Accessories Award and a steady future in the fashion industry. Not only are we amazed by the options that come with these handbags, performing as accessory, furniture and storage, the impeccable quality these handbags radiate is truly remarkable. Aiming to give our eyes and minds a break from cluttered reality, she was inspired by compulsive orderliness, a disorder she recognizes herself in. Her inner urge to create a balance between objects within her surrounding area translates itself in the functional value of her bags, solving the on-going issue of space saving. Having brought a truly unique product on the market, we are curious how she is going to translate the combining function and aesthetics in other concepts.
Nok Nok. Who’s there?
An interview with Angel Nokonoko, leading denim designer heading up new East London based denim company Nok Nok.
Nok Nok is a vibrant new take on the classic denim jean that has sparked excitement in the creative hub of East London. Nok Nok is an experimental take on how we see and wear our favorite piece of clothing, drawing on inspiration from classic British tailoring and merging them with new washes and techniques inspired by vintage punk, surf and skate style. Nok Nok sources their denim fabrics from Okayama, Japan to provide a solid range of T-shirt.
ROOMS had the privilege to speak to the head designer and founder Angel Nokonoko about his denim collection, why he loves Dalston and what advice he can give to aspiring fashion designers.
How would you describe your company Nok Nok?
Nok Nok is an extension of myself, fun, interesting, and fresh, different with an edge as I say.
How did you get started designing, was this a childhood dream, were you always interested in a career in fashion?
Well since my nightlife times in Ibiza as a teen I use to make and customized t-shirts and jeans for my friends before going raving. It wasn’t really a childhood dream to be honest, I wanted to be a footballer, but I enjoyed making clothes, cutting them, putting studs, it was a great way of expressing myself, like a painting or a picture you want to send a friend or recreate a feeling that you have deep down.
You are a designer and a DJ; do you draw inspiration for designing from music too?
I draw inspiration from anything that I connect with in on spiritual a physical level. I will feel an instant urge to wright it down, draw it or taking a pic. But yeah music it’s a great source of inspiration, same as movies, I love dramas! I don’t really consider myself a DJ out of respect of some of my good friends that are masters in this craft. I would say I’m a good tune selector with a good eye to feel what people want to listen. But funny enough lately I’m djing every weekend with a monthly residency for Weekend Gang Party and I have a weekly radio show at Dejavufm on Thursday.
You are based in East London but you are originally from Ibiza, how are the two cultures different and how have they influenced your fashion designs?
I think East London is a bigger Ibiza, there’s so much energy, I love living in Dalston. I feel so energized and inspired whenever I’m out, the mixture of cultures and styles are great from Turkish to Jamaicans, from fashionistas to skaters and rockers... It’s great and the nightlife it’s pretty good, so it reminds me of Ibiza, the happy vibes… the mixture of people. This influences my work constantly, I like to create pieces that people can wear on a night out, cool rock & roll, sexy and also can wear them to the beach during the day.
Are there any other designers or places of interest in London you get inspiration from?
Nowadays I don’t really follow or check other designers I rather check painters, sculptures, dancers, singers! I draw inspiration from their style, personality & aura... London is great for inspiration you can go to Soho and the energy is so strong or you can go to Stamford hill and feel like you are in a totally different country but this is so beautiful and inspiring.
I understand you are a Central Saint Martins alumni, what kind of advice would you give to a young fashion student inspiring to have their own fashion company?
My time in Saint Martins was some of the best years in London. I used to organize parties for all the students and sometimes teachers used to come down so people used to know me for that. But I also worked really hard; I would say work hard but also learn as much as you can, meet people that can give you good advice, be confident in your dream, don’t let anyone tell you can’t do it! Learn from your mistakes, but above all have fun while you are building you company!! It’s so exciting.
You place a lot of value in detail in your denim collection, from floral fabrics lining the interior to good quality sourced fabrics from Japan, how important is detail for you in design?
Angel Nokonoko by Vlady Vala
I love detail; this comes from the fact that I’m a menswear designer first, so I like to focus on small hidden details. It’s what shows that you have been thinking and studying your design, that there’s a balance and reasoning behind it all. I believe quality is very important; it’s a key point on your brand, especially for small brands, the way you are able to compete is by introducing interesting cool details and quality. I have always been in love with Japan, its culture, people and way of life, they are perfectionist when it comes to craftsmanship, and so quality there is very important.
We are doing a big event in Tokyo in June for my brand in partnership with Weekend Gang Party and 6Tribes.com
What are your plans for your brand for the next year?
I have so many plans for the brand, sky is the limit! We want to get stocked at some big retailers in London, we are talking with a few and have meetings; in addition we are working in a licensing deal for a distribution company in Canada so that will help lift the business up. But for me fashion is just one side of the brand, I would like to expand it to entertainment, like a lounge/shop, a radio station and few other things…
Earn some fashion points by checking out Nok Nok denim designs
All photos © Nok Nok denim and Angel Nokonoko
Up close and personal at Fashion Scout
When ROOMS were invited to check out the Fashion Scout, Ones to Watch show, and go behind the scenes, we jumped at the chance.
When ROOMS were invited to check out the Fashion Scout, Ones to Watch show, and go behind the scenes, we jumped at the chance. And where better than Fashion Scout to discover the latest talented designers.
JMOON kicked off the show, founded by London College of Fashion graduate, Jihnee Moon, who recently launched her womenswear line. With her modern use of colour and textures, it’s easy to see why she won the ‘best directional use of colour and textile’ award for her BA press show.
Her simplistic take on tailored trousers, peter pan collars and roll necks, contrasted with hints of colour made her collection just the right amount of minimalism.
South Korean designer, Minju Kim’s playful approach to fashion has got her collaborating with Disney to re-image Minnie Mouse. A standout short and blazer two set, complete with said Minnie print made an appearance on the runway. Minnie Mouse had never been so coveted.
Kim Stevenson’s collection paid homage to a London guard with her tall headpieces. Her use of floral embroidery against denim and tasseled textures gave her line a flamboyant, showy edge – however, she brought it back down to street level with her patchwork, wearable jeans.
Angel Chen’s latest collection, Bunny with short Leg is noticeably different from her usual brave coloured previous lines. With khaki greens and juxtaposed texture, it’s ultimately still Chen behind the collection, but Bunny with short leg feels like her previous collection, The Rite of Spring’s, older, more sophisticated sister.
Wearing scout neckties, badges and boyish shorts this collection had an androgynous vibe. She incorporated daring yellow and reds, perhaps as a nod to her more colourful work, complementing the forest greens and creams of the lace details.
To draw upon her bunny title, Chen collaborated with designer Jing Tan to give her models sock ‘bunny’ feet, and beautifully intricate lace bunny ears, disguised as hats.
ROOMS were instantly drawn to both Chen’s designs, and Chen herself. The first thing you notice about her is how much of herself she projects into her clothes. Her animated character is undeniably addictive and you can sense her energy as soon as she speaks.
Her clothes not only reflect this energetic vibe, they echo her inner childlike qualities. It would be no surprise if everyone that met her tried to put her in their pocket, so they too could carry around her spirit with them.
ROOMS caught up with Chen to hear about the new collection. Inspired by a Bolero lyric, Chen’s told us her ideas stemmed from: “An army group walking through this forest, where they come across this goddess like girl. Everyone loves and wants to protect her.”
She projects this exploration through her use of texture to symbolise the forest girl’s lively nature. The collection combines both organic and synthetic materials, with mixtures of lace and tasseled details.
As far as new design is concerned, Fashion Scout’s, One to Watch show had a variety of designers we hope to see in the future. All showcased inventive, original styles and techniques, combined with high-end and wearable pieces. All designers had that special something, however, Chen’s latest collection, and her carefree spirit ticked all the boxes for ROOMS. We can’t fault her, and would quite like to be her new best friend – Angel, please take note.
JMOON, ANGEL CHEN, MINJU KIM, KIM STEVENSON
Photos by Alexandra Uhart